Roti Canai
Roti canai: buttery, flaky, warm; simultaneously chewy and crispy. In short, comforting. As far as national treasures go it ticks every box.
As so often is the case with a country’s flagship foods, the tale behind Malaysia and Singapore’s beloved staple is one of migration, trade and community. Roti is a flatbread that travelled with the Malayalis and the Tamils of Southern India to British Malaya in the early 1900s, who arrived on mass to staff rubber plantations. Indian-Muslim Mamak (the Tamil-derived term “uncle”) stalls popped up in the ports of Penang and Singapore, providing migrant workers with the small home comfort of Roti Prata - the Hindi term by which it was initially known - in a foreign land.
Melaka, a small fishing village on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula that began to grow into a significant port during the early 15th Century.
Malay cuisine has a rich cultural heritage, owing in large part to the influence of Thai, Portuguese, Chinese, Indian, Javanese and Arab traders. The latter also brought with them the practices of Islam, converting the Melaka Sultan and thus establishing it as the Malay religion. This sense of familiarity perhaps explains how Malays made the dish their own: the name refers to the bread (roti) and the process by which it is made (canai).
The basic roti canai dough consists mainly of flour, water (or milk), salt, a little sugar and a whole lot of ghee. These are mixed until the dough is formed, and then multiple cycles of kneading and resting take place, after which the dough is stretched paper-thin, layered, and cooked on a flat griddle know as a Tawa.
As a staple, it is eaten most often with dhal or meat curry, though modern-day interpretations include a sweet version with Nutella and banana, somewhat akin to a crepe. However, our recipe pays homage to the classic vegetarian breakfast iteration that draws on the ingredients and flavours of this incredibly rich and diverse culture.
Serves 4 [as a starter or side]
Ingredients
250g of strong white bread flour
40ml of condensed milk
1 medium egg, beaten
300g of red lentils, rinsed and drained
400ml of coconut milk
1 tsp of turmeric powder
1 tsp of mild curry powder
1 tsp of chili powder
1 tsp of cumin powder
1 brown onion, finely diced
1 tsp of cumin seeds
10 fresh curry leaves
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tbsp of ginger, minced
2 ripe medium-sized tomatoes, diced
Vegetable oil
Melted ghee (optional)
Salt
Instructions
In a large mixing bowl, add the flour and make a well in the middle. Add the condensed milk, egg, 1 tsp of salt, 2 tbsps of vegetable oil and 70ml of cold water and slowly mix together with your hand until evenly incorporated.
Once a dough starts to form, knead on a flat surface for 5 minutes until smooth. The dough will feel a bit sticky at first, don’t worry - just keep working it. Avoid adding any extra flour. Place the dough back in the mixing bowl, cover with cling film and rest for 20 minutes.
After the dough has rested, knead it for an additional 5 minutes and divide into 4. Roll the dough into smooth balls by cupping your hand and rolling on a flat surface. Coat your hands with oil and rub all over each ball of dough. Place the dough in a tupperware or container where they fit tightly and cover with oil (you can reuse this oil). Place a lid on top and refrigerate overnight. Allow the dough to come up to room temperature before cooking.
To make the dhal curry, add the lentils, coconut milk, turmeric, chilli, 1 tsp of salt, and 500ml of water to a medium-sized saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 20 minutes until the lentils are soft and creamy.
Meanwhile, add 3 tbsps of oil to a non-stick frying pan or wok over a medium heat. After a few minutes add the onion and sauté until soft and golden, stirring frequently. Next, add the cumin seeds, curry leaves, garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant. Add the curry powder and cumin powder for 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes, a splash of water, a good pinch of salt and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to stop the mixture from sticking.
When the lentils are ready, add the tomato mixture and season to taste. Add a splash of water if necessary to loosen the mixture.
To cook the roti, take a ball of dough out, dip your hands in the oil and press lightly to flatten the dough. Using the palm of your hand and fingers, stretch it out as thinly as you can until the dough is translucent - make sure you dip your hands occasionally in the oil to help with the stretching (don't worry if you make a few holes in the dough). Cover the surface of the stretched dough with melted ghee (or oil) and fold the edges into the centre (trapping as much air as possible) to form a rectangle. Repeat to make 4 roti.
Add 2 tbsps of melted ghee or oil to a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, take it in turns to cook the roti for 1-2 minutes on each side until golden brown and a little charred in places - make sure you replenish the ghee/oil each time.
Once the roti are cooked, place on a flat surface. Using both hands, scrunch the edges in using a clapping motion (be careful as the roti will be hot) - this will help the roti be light and flakey.
Brush the top side of each roti with melted ghee or oil - you can also sprinkle a little salt if you deem necessary. Stack the roti on top of each other and keep under an old tea towel to keep warm and steam slightly.
To serve, divide the dhal into small bowls and serve alongside the roti.
Words Ary Anbari / Recipe Poppy Mist / Illustrations © Diogo Rodrigues